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loopyonion
Merseyside,
United Kingdom
Posts: 4
Daytona T595 (97-98)
14 May 2008 23:15 |
Hi, new to the forum, and also triumph ownership after having a GSXR 750 SRAD and a Ducati Monster M600.
I bought a 1997 T595 Daytona in yellow from Fleabay, it looked and rode spot on. I added a Hi Level carbon snub nose can from Blueflame, and enjoyed the sound and performance..
Until tuesday, on my way home, (the long route home that is 
From a 30mph zone, 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear, then no gears... just grinding. WTF?
Managed to coast into a layby and kill the engine. The lower rear engine mount bolt had lost its nut, and slid out into the gear selector, blocking my changes..
Taking the stray bolt out, i noticed the other one was loose, but the nut was still on the threadlock part. So, i rode the last few miles home, parked her up, and took the escaping bolt away to find a suitable locknut to hold it in.
Right about now, many experienced owners are predicting the next few paragraphs..
Today I take the offending bolt, install into the bike, finger tight the nut, then begin to tighten..
Actually in hindsight, wasnt a good idea. As i got it to a fairly tight point, i checked the other side which was loose, and it was tight also.. Okay nice i thought, then there was a TINK, then the engines lifeblood began to drip on the driveway, under feeling the route of the oils escape, i have a crack leading from the engine mount base inside near the sump, up to the top directly above, probably hairline through that section..
The question being, do i need to replace? or weld, as i think JB metalweld may be not quite up to the job..
I reckon it could be got at with a TIG welder, but what material is it, as most parts on the bike are magnesium alloy?
When its fixed, obviously it needs shimming, my hunch is that the shims were never fitted by the idiot previous owner, and possibly the nuts and bolts were there "just tight", i have lost a nuty and in my error caused this calamity 
Any help greatly appreciated, as the sun is just starting to shine after a lousy winter, and ive only had the bike a month!
Incidently, it has 14k on the clock, and no other problems until this!
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Skippy
Dunfermline,
United Kingdom
Posts: 1,786
Premier Member
Daytona T595 (97-98)
15 May 2008 07:36 |
Engine cases are cast aluminium as far as I know. Should be easy enough to get it welded.
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X-Man
Chesterfield/Derbys,
United Kingdom
Posts: 8,755
Premier Member
Enthusiast
15 May 2008 09:37 |
there is a sequence to tightening the bolts and you have been the victim of not doing it right (if a little unfortunate). When doing anything with the bolts that hold the engine in all should be loose and the tighten the left hand side to (IIRC 60 NM) then measure the gaps between the the bottom two engine mounts on the right hand side. If these are more than 1 mm then you need to shim (there is another measurement as well that I can't remember which means you may or may not have to add shims in other places to match) then you torque the right side up to 60 nm then left side to 90 nm then right side to 90 nm. It only has to be done once but if the engines been out and changed its always worth doing again; as you have found.
Its worth the £10 for Premier membership for the Knowledge base but do a search on here for workshop manual to download one.
The cases are cast alloy and you should be able to weld them. I had my head welded a couple of times successfully.
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loopyonion
Merseyside,
United Kingdom
Posts: 4
Daytona T595 (97-98)
15 May 2008 11:19 |
mmm, looks like it wasnt totally my mistake after all..
A few more developments:-
The lower case and upper case are apparently line bored for the drivetrain, so i need to see how far the cases are out by, and if the lower case will pop back together first, If not, this may upset the geartrain if that has distorted!
i get the bike in my work this afternoon by trailer  then i will have a good look, and pull the wheel off to get a clearer view.
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Manny Fagnet
Poland,sorry Reading,
United Kingdom
Posts: 1,486
Premier Member
Daytona T595 (97-98)
15 May 2008 11:30 |
Yep-if you ain't got the shim in there-i assume it fell out, then the cases will have been stretched to breaking/craking point!
Second hand engine?
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loopyonion
Merseyside,
United Kingdom
Posts: 4
Daytona T595 (97-98)
15 May 2008 11:44 |
possibly, going to have a go at repair, as things cant get any worse, and look to buy a 2nd hand engine asap.. then the fun really begins.
The crack is in the lower half of the case, i will try to post pictures when i get it back later, then try a few methods of repair 
With the rear swingarm dropped, i should get a good view of the problem!
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Terry Colley
Sydney,
Australia
Posts: 110
Speed Triple 955i (02-04)
15 May 2008 13:37 |
When I removed my '02 S3 engine the spacers just fell to the ground. After reading the manual I guessed it was important to work out which went where but it really took some sussing.
I can imagine a lot of people couldn't be arsed. Loopy, it looks like you fell foul of someones elses slackness. Someone had your engine out before and didn't put the spacers back in or at least not in the same places they came out.
Most people would have done just what you did when faced with a couple of loose engine bolts- tightened them without ever considering there should be a spacer. My sympathies mate.
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loopyonion
Merseyside,
United Kingdom
Posts: 4
Daytona T595 (97-98)
16 May 2008 19:38 |
engine out, damage assesed.. no shims anywhere, and kickstand fixings loose, could of come off anywhere while riding. lovely. upgrading to premier membership to use the manuals to assemble it right this time.
Currently working on welding the crack. then creating a brace welded between the webs to reinforce. pictures to follow.
Glad its in bits.. what else lurks beneath.
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